Food-and-wine pairings

Follow an expert’s advice for matches made in culinary heaven

Hey, nice legs. No not you, the wine.

Swirl your favorite varietal or blend in a glass and you’ll notice tears, or “legs,” dripping down the inside surface.

Though it can be entertaining to do this, it reveals little about the duality of the wine you’re drinking or how well it pairs with a meal.

The real meat and potatoes behind the pairing process is understanding the taste and aroma of various wines in relation to the flavor of the food they're served with. Cooking styles, preparation techniques and the types of sauces used are all factors to keep in mind.

Photos by Fred Braziel David Soper, sommelier and owner of The Wooden Vine

David Soper, sommelier and owner of uptown eatery The Wooden Vine, recommends a few tips for pairing food with wine.

One way is to “Build the food around the wine rather than doing it the other way around,” says Soper. “The wine is already made so if you start with the wine and build the food around that, it’s much easier to do.”

Take, for instance, a Vinho Verde from Portugal or an Albarino from Spain. Lighter-style white wines are perfect for summertime since they’re crisp, zesty and refreshing. They might be best served with a mild white fish such as grouper, seared chicken, garden vegetables or a salad dressed in citrus vinaigrette.

If you choose a light to mid-bodied red wine like a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir or Stags Leap Petite Syrah with hints of spicy and earthy notes, these do well served alongside a salmon or pork dish. A full-bodied tannic red from California would certainly complement more hearty fare such as a grilled New York strip or lamb chop.

No matter the preference, taking a little bit of time to understand the density and textures of food in relation to the body, or weight, of the wine it’s paired with will have you well on your way to enjoying the perfect pairing.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with opposites

“The second rule of thumb is to sometimes take opposites,” says Soper. “Usually, you want to do that if you’re pairing the wine with food that’s already there.”

When going this route, you don’t necessarily want polar opposites. For example, a braised pork belly is sure to overpower a wine such as Sonoma Cutrer Sauvignon Blanc. A German Riesling with a spicy Thai or Asian dish, however, combines a not-so-ordinary balance of “zippy” and sweet flavors that mesh well. If pairing opposites, you want to go with any wine that cuts into the dish and turns down or increases flavors you desire to bring out.

Since no meal is truly complete without a sweet finish, this is the perfect time to pair a fruity red or white with dessert. Moscato D’asti is nice with light-colored cakes or peach cobbler, whereas the cherry flavors in Apothic Red can bring out the characteristics of milk chocolates.

If you’re in the mood for a liquid dessert think about a ruby port wine, which pairs well with the sharpness of blue cheese. For an international experience, you can mix tonic with white port and indulge in a refreshing summery drink native to Portugal.

Feeling adventurous yet? If so, stop by The Wooden Vine and try its Bahn mi – a fun twist on a classic Vietnamese dish. Served with in-house pickled vegetables and jalapenos, its light texture delivers a nice balance of spicy and acidic components. Since the venison is farm raised, eliminating some of the “gaminess” of the protein, Soper suggests pairing a white wine to bring out the best flavors for your palate.